Friday 7th August 2009
For my second blog I have decided to copy across my notes from the Auswine Forum on a very special dinner and wine tasting i conducted about 9 months ago.
Back in June of 2009 I put together a very special selection of wines and closely co-ordinated a degustation dinner with Chef Darren Templeman of Restaurant Atelier in Sydney. The idea went a little something like this:
For some time now I and a fellow dedicated wine drinking and cellaring friend have wanted to open a number of rare and serious wines from our cellars. We wanted to share them with some other wine loving people who are prepared to come on an evening journey into wine.
Our idea was to open these wines among a small group of 8 people in total. There would be 4 to 5 seats available at the table. The wines would be served alongside a specially prepared degustation menu by the head chef at a select Sydney restaurant. Each course would be matched to each one of the wines being served. The dinner would take place in a private dining room at the selected restaurant.
We hoped this would be a chance to make some new friends who share the same passion we do for great and rare wines and share the cost in opening some great and rare bottles of wine. There would be a total of 10 wines and 8 courses of food with 2 particular wines being served either on their own or with an additional cheese course.
The Place was Restaurant Atelier in Glebe, Sydney. The wines came from both mine and very good friend’s cellar. The all important wine list:
1976 Pol Roger, Blanc De Blanc De Reserva, Champagne, France
1988 Krug Vintage Brut, Champagne, France
1979 Leo Buring, DW 116, Riesling, SA
1995 Leeuwin Art Series, Chardonnay, WA
1982 Wynn's, John Riddoch, Cabernet Sauvignon, SA
1990 Penfolds, 707, Cabernet Sauvignon, SA
1976 Penfolds, Grange Hermitage, Shiraz, SA
1966 Penfolds, Grange Hermitage, Shiraz, SA (Red wine clinic 1998)
1958 Seppelt, Bin CH16, Burgundy, Shiraz (Colin Preece wine)
1977 Pieroth, Beeranauslese Riesling, Germany
All Saints, Grand Liqueur Tokay, Vic
The Menu with matched wines is listed below:
Starter: Pol Roger
Canapés
Course 1: Krug
Wild Iranian Caviar Two-Ways, Potato Blinis & White Chocolate
Course 2: Leo Buring
Kangaroo Island Marron Tail, Foie Gras Mousse, Pea & Ham Ice Cream, Fresh Pea Salad
Course 3: Leeuwin Estate
Jamon Iberico, Fennel Agar, Pickled Girolles, & Cipolinne, Seared Scallop
Colin Preece Seppelt – no food
Course 4: John Riddoch
Roasted Rack of lamb, Fresh Burgundian Summer Truffle, Potato Gnocchi, Seared Foie Gras
Course 5: 707
Cocoa-Roasted Striploin of New Zealand Venison, Baby Turnips, Confit Carrot Puree, Liquorice-Infused Sauce
Course 6: Both Grange
Seasonal Selection of Cheese
Course 7: Beeranauslese
Tahitian Vanilla & Chocolate Fudge Souffle, Malt-Chocolate Ice Cream, Malt Milkshake
All Saints - no food
Below is my notes on the wines after the event which took place on Friday 7th August 2009. The only unfortunate thing i did in these original notes was to not write up the food and i should have because it was sensational (see the photos at the bottom for an indication).
Wow Wow Wow!!!!!!!
Last night the Wine gods shined down upon us with great old bottle after great old bottle. A fantastic evening with amazing wines, incredible food and great company.
Firstly a big thank you to everyone one that came last night and participated in this amazing line up of wines. You company was very much enjoyed on such a memorable evening of wine tasting. A special thank you to Dave for bringing a 94 HOG (Hill of Grace) and 39 Seppelt Para port to share with everyone. A very big thank you to Gavin for opening his cellar and providing a number of the wines to make up this awesome line up. I too had a little surprise for everyone in the form of an 83 Penfolds 707 which also went down a treat.
Secondly a massive thank you to Atelier Restaurant for some wonderful food and great service. Darren is certainly a very talented and capable chef and thank you again to Bernadette and our waiter Julian for your friendly and efficient service.
Now onto the wine... Only 1 wine out of the complete line up was past it and had certainly seen better days. I did not take notes on the night as i left my pen and paper at home and i was also rather busy preparing the wines but i will give my impressions on each wine from memory and in order.
1976 Pol Roger - Deep golden almost amber in colour, fine bead with a toffee, biscuit, yeasty toasty nose. The palate showed butter scotch, nougatine, citrus, lemon and grape fruit peel and was very enjoyable. We were off to a great start.
1988 Krug - Unlike the bottle opened 12 months ago which was extremely fruity and complex this wine showed a nose of green apples, mineral and even some apple pie sweetness. The same followed on the palate, complex, tight and massive this was still only a baby and hard to believe it was 21yrs old. Incredible acid and that granny smith apple presence. Still many years ahead of it. A Super wine.
1979 Leo Buring Show Reserve Riesling - Lovely nose showing typical aged riesling characteristics with a little citrus and some Hay. Unfortunately for me the palate just didnt live upto the wonderful nose on this wine never the less an enjoyable experience with some bitter apple, mild citrus and Kero on a lean and short palate. Im guessing we were perhaps 5 years plus too late for this one.
1995 LEAS Chardonnay - Wonderful chardonnay with peach, honey dew melon and sweet glace pineapple the same followed on the palate with some nice buttery well integrated oak. Although this bottle was a touch short on the finish compared to bottles opened recently it was a another great wine and enjoyed by all. The last of the whites and so far we were all very happy with the wine gods offerings.
1958 Seppelt Bin CH16 Colin Preece wine - Firstly an amazing colour for a wine that is 50 years old unfortunately the same couldnt be said for the nose and palate which while the fruit and structure was still some what evident this bottle was clearly long gone and probably a victim of improper cellaring at some stage of its life.
1982 Wynn’s John Riddoch - interesting sweaty nose with asparagus and some mintiness, the palate certainly had structure, fruit (although secondary) fine tannins, spearmint, capsicum and leather. A very enjoyable experience and this bottle i feel still had many years ahead of it.
1983 Penfolds 707 - Lovely redish purple in colour, beautiful nose of red fruits, cassis, boysenberry with a dash of vanilla. the palate was soft and supple with gentle cassis, leather, soft tannins but a little thin on the back palate and more middle weight. As someone else at the table put it "a lovely wine to sit and drink with a good book on Sunday afternoon" Drink up!
1990 Penfolds 707 - Deep purple, lovely nose of Cassis, vanilla, coffee, Anise. Big, bold and brooding this was a superb wine. The palate showed pure blackcurrant, mocha, vanilla good tannin structure and is still yet to reach its peak in my opinion. Fantastic wine.
1966 Penfolds Grange - Quite remarkable! This was something very special indeed. Well integrated, lovely soft reddish purple colour, on the nose very complex, smoke, leather, dark fruits, chocolate, liquorice and coffee which all flowed onto a glorious palate so well integrated, complex and powerful. This was quite simply a glorious old Grange that was an incredible experience to taste and probably one of the best wines i have ever drank. Thank you wine gods!
1976 Penfolds Grange - Wow! Deep purple, lovely nose of blackberry, chocolate, mint, liquorice and tar. On the palate blackberry liqueur, chocolate, coffee, tar, smoke, liquorice and a melange of other flavours in a very powerful and full package that still has so many years ahead of it. For me this wine punched above the 66 with its sheer power and was my WOTN however at the same time the 66 was also in a league of its own making WOTN a very very hard choice.
1994 Henschke Hill of Grace - dark purple in colour, lovely nose of blackberry, tar and anise. The palate showed this wine is still only a pup, powerful, muscular, tight and still quite closed the palate showed some dark berry fruits with a solid tannin structure that is still softening out. A wonderful wine that would have benefited from more time in a decanter than it was given to open and show even better. Still a great wine and a fitting end to the red wines for the evening.
1977 Pieroth Beeranauslese - Golden amber in colour, honey, citrus, apricot and toffee followed onto the palate with a dash of golden syrup richness without being cloying. This is certainly at its peak and for me almost like drinking liquid dried apricots coated in honey and golden syrup with a touch of candied citrus peel. Just Magic!
All Saints Grand Tokay - Toffee, tea, raisin, treacle, mouth coating goodness with amazing depth! I think many of you know the deal here.
1939 Seppelt Para Port - Superb Para Port in pristine condition! (thank you Dave)
Overall an incredible line up of wines with a menu to die for! A wonderful experience with some great new friends! What more could you ask for.
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